रूपकुंड (Roopkund Lake) -- Day-1

Background:

This was definitely a "call of the mountains".

It started with "Valley of Flowers" trek in July-2015.  I felt mesmerised and intimidated by the sheer size of the mountains, the snow covered giant glaciers and the possibility to drive body (and mind) beyond it's limits.

**I did not know, there is a song by this name: "call of the mountains" in the album "Eluveitie".  Its lyrics fits the sentiments very well...

**There is a Marathi Natyageet with similar mood as well.  "साद देती हिमशिखरे शुभ्र पर्वताची", complete lyrics here.  But here, the hero is wishing to leave for Tapasya leaving the worldly pleasures behind :-)

Present:

Apr-16, started hunting for a Himalayan Treks that I should attempt this year.  After a few searches, finalised Roopkund.  The "lake-with-skeletons" attracted me in addition to a lot of fellow trekkers talking about it.  1 more team member of mine Yash agreed to join + 1 more friend of his from Pune as well.  Sometime in May-16, paid visit to Decathlon, the sports shop and spent ~6K :-(.  Started preparation by walking 4 - 5 KM each day, 5 days a week.  Like last year, this year also did a few rounds of Nandi Hill to test my stamina.

The unexpected:

4 days before the departure, on a WED morning, I was casually looking myself in the mirror and suddenly my lower back started paining, some kind of sprain.  I guess the me in mirror did not like the real me for some reason :-(.

I thought it will go away with more movements or bit of walking so continued with my routine and reached office, while the lower back was still paining.  After a few hrs at office, the pain did not show any sign of reducing.  Now, it was not allowing me to sit or stand either.  Something was seriously wrong :-(

Went to the Doctor's room, took a painkiller + used hot-water-bag.  No relief !  Luckily, later that day, an orthopedic was to visit our office.

He examined and told me -- this looks like some weak muscle has sprained -- or this can be "disk" related issue -- take medicine for a few days, if the pain does not go, you'll have to get an MRI done -- this is typical of "modern" Doctors -- they make it look like they are not hiding anything from you -- and they scare you royally...

Dr. gave me 5 days medicine and asked me to watch myself.  When I told him about my trek plans, he blasted me saying, do not do any adventures, just cancel the trek...

Came home and started taking the painkillers.  Luckily, in 2 days the pain reduced and 4th day, it was gone :-).  Meanwhile, parents were worried.  Kept calling me 2 times a day, asking me to check back with the doctor.

This sudden development had potential to derail my trek plans.  But I survived...

Itinerary:

Day	From	To	Distance	Mode	Elevation	Elevation
Day-1	Bangalore	Delhi	---	Flight
	Delhi	kathgodam	---	Train
Day-2	Kathgodam	Lohajung	240 km	By Road	2300 m	7500 ft
Day-3	Lohajung	Didna	10 km	Trek	2450 m	8000 ft
Day-4	Didna	Bedni Bugyal	12 km	Trek	3600 m	12000 ft
Day-5	Bedni Bugyal	Patar Nachuni	5 km	Trek	3750 m	12300 ft
Day-6	Patar Nachuni	Bagubasa	5 km	Trek	4300 m	14000 ft
Day-7	Bagubasa	Roopkund	4 km	Trek	4850 m	15900 ft
	Roopkund	Bagubasa	4 km	Trek	---	---
	Bagubasa	Patar Nachuni	5 km	Trek	---	---
	Patar Nachuni	Bedni Bugyal	5 km	Trek	---	---
Day-8	Bedni Bugyal	Wan	17 km	Trek	---	---
	Wan	Lohajung	15 km	By Road	---	---
Day-9	Lohajung	Kathgodam	240 km	By Road	---	---
Day-10	Kathgodam	Delhi	---	Train	---	---
	Delhi	Bangalore	---	Flight	---	---

Day-1:

Took an early morning BLR - DEL flight.  As usual it was pleasant and little cold morning at Bangaluru.  When we landed at Delhi, around 10:30 AM, the flight attendant told outside temp is 36 °C.  The moment I stepped out of the aircraft, it was evident that I was in Delhi.  It was hot !  Not like 36 °C of Bangaluru...

1st we had a little mix-up of terminal at Airport while we caught up with Chirag.  Then took Metro to reach Chandni Chauk.  Target was "prathewali gali".  Actually, last year I had been here and felt that this place has lost its charm and taste.  But still attempted it again this year.  Now, I'll not dare it again next time.  It is not worth the efforts anymore :-(

Post lunch, reached Old Delhi Rly Station to catch 4 PM train to Kathgodam.  Spent time in waiting room on 1st floor.  Age old ceiling fans from this age old building were completely useless.  Same in the train.  It was HOT all the way till 8 PM.

Finally reached Kathgodam by 11 PM.  We were not sure if we'll get food this late.  Two of our trek mates helped us with packed dinner.  They had reached Kathgodam earlier that day and would be joining us for the Trek next morning.

I had been to Kathgodam during Jun 2011 for Nainital - Kausani - Ranikhet trip.  That time, this Railway station felt real small.  We in fact spent that night at the station as taxi did not use to run between Kathgodam & Nainital during night.

This time, it was a complete change of scene.  The railway station has been renovated.  A new reservation counter, quiet many restaurants and shops that were open late night.  Taxi and buses to Nainital running late night as well.  The lighting at railway station looked impressive and this is the 1st photo that I took for this trip.

Kathgodam Railway Station

I had booked KMVN Guest House that is next to the railway station for night assuming it to be the safest option.  This is located next to a Masjid and we were sure of waking up at 5 AM :-).

फूलों की घाटी (Valley of Flowers) Trip -- Day: 2

19-July-2015

Today plan was to get up early & start towards Govindhat, via: Rishikesh - Devaprayag - Srinagar - Karnaprayag - Chamoli - Joshimath.

We were told to be ready by 6 AM & that the tempo will start with or without us at 6 AM from the hotel.  This transport was arranged by our tour operator.  Otherwise, one can take state-transport Haridwar - Joshimath bus as well.

We were also told that sometimes the road gets blocked due to landslide & it is better to start early.

The tempo came at 7 AM & our batch of 9 got into it.  Rest 7 were new faces.  Had no idea who they are & where are they from.  We loaded our luggage, took our seats & started.  Who would have said at this time that these 7 new members will become friends for life during next 7 days :-)...

As soon as we left Rishikesh, the drive was all "ghats" & nothing else.  Mountains, forest, green everywhere + the Ganga river on one side all the time.  Time to sit back & enjoy the drive.  Weather was also good.  Not very sunny & no rains.

On the way, passed Devaprayag.  This is where "Bhagirathi River" flowing form left joins "Alaknanda River" flowing form right and continues towards Rishikesh as "Ganga River".  Did not go down to the Sangam for want of time.  Had seen this confluence in many pictures.  It was nice to see the two rivers bringing in water that has distinct color.

Confluence of Bhagirathi & Alaknansa rivers to form Ganga

Here onward, Alaknanda River would be with us all the time.  Further up, Alaknanda River, is at Badrinath, then Mana village & if you check it on google earth, it is seen starting near "Bhagirath Kharak Glacier".

By 10:30 AM, we had crossed Srinagar village.  About 30 min later, near Kalyasaur village, the tempo driver found his friend who was driving other tempo form our group.  He stopped our tempo saying "lunch" break.  We had our b'fast at 8 AM & nobody was hungry for lunch.  After getting down, we got to know that 4 KM ahead, the road is blocked due to land-slide & police has stopped all the vehicles at Kalyasaur village.  People were telling that it may take 1 day to clear the road.  This was our 1st encounter with nature, at the beginning of the trip itself.

To kill time, myself & Dnyanesh, we decided to walk up to the land-slide spot & see it for ourselves.  It was bright & sunny so we took our umbrellas with us.  This is probably 1st time in life that I used umbrella for sun :-).

Border Road Organisation's (BRO) sign board.

"Shivalik" is name of the project that BRO took up for laying roads in this part of Uttarakhand.  For more check this link -- Shivalik

While we were walking casually towards the land-slide spot, one Sardarji crossed us on bicycle.  He should be 50+.  With 1 bag on his career & 1 hanging from handle.  As the road had a steep incline, he was pushing his bicycle.  When we asked him "where is he from?" & "where is he going?".  He told us that he is form Punjab & going to "Hemkund Saheb".  From the point where we met him, Hemkund Saheb is about 175 KM.  And he was going there on bicycle !  Amazing !!  During next few days we saw many more devote Sikhs going to Hemkund Saheb for the pilgrimage.  More about that later...

1 KM before the land-slide spot, suddenly we saw bikes coming form opposite direction & the riders were shouting that the road has been opened.  As expected, vehicles started coming form Kalyasaur village.  Everybody was in such a hurry that most of them started going ahead on wrong side & this resulted in traffic jam.  Vehicles coming from front had no way to move out & it became a chaos.  We called our tempo driver & asked him not to leave the hotel as there was traffic jam.  We then took a state transport bus back to our tempo.  We had lunch & then left to join the traffic jam :-)

Our tempo could hardly go 2 KM & we got stuck behind a big line.  Dnyanesh again decided to walk ahead & see if the traffic jam can be managed.  Meanwhile, it was 4 PM & all other members in the tempo were getting worried that the traffic jam will not clear & no way to find out how long will this take.  We then called the tour operator & asked him to check for hotel for us at Srinagar town back towards Haridwar + we decided to wait there for 1 hr more & if the traffic clears, then we had chance to move out & reach Govindghat.

Suddenly it rained heavily for about 15 - 20 min.  Once the rains stopped, I decided to walk towards the land-slide spot.  And the situation (नजारा) was horrible & scary...

Uttarakhand Police & PWD at work

Only a single vehicle can pass through this stretch of road

Landslide from both: above mountains & below the road

One one side, huge mountain + continuous rocks falling form there + such small road that only 1 vehicle can pass at a time + the road itself is in dangerous condition, rocks & soil caved out below the road itself + down, other side, the mighty Alaknanda River, god only knows how deep it is...

Police told us that this is a usual happening.  सब लोग आके गये, PWD, BRO.  IIT भी आया, लेकिन किसीको इसका उपाय नही मालूम.  There is a proposal for an alternative road up in the mountains, but its half done.

This situation was in NEWS as well -- Uttarakhand: Landslides and rainfall leave pilgrims on Char Dham Yatra stranded

I was lucky to spot a mountain goat here, up on the side from where the rocks were falling.

Dnyanesh crossed this stretch by walk.  He told us later that the road got clear for a while & vehicles had started moving.  But then all eager drivers created traffic jam.  State transport buses were ahead of all in creating the chaos.  These bus drivers are super expert.  They drive the buses on these dangerous roads as of driving a toy...

Again rocks started falling form top & the road got blocked.  Finally, around 6 PM, after the work by the earth movers + a lot of police intervention, the traffic started moving slowly.  We had to wait for 7 hrs at this spot before we crossed it.

As per plan, we should have reached Govindgath by 5 or 6 PM max.  It was still 150 KM away & with the ghat all the way, it was 4 - 5 hrs ride more.  We took a quick dinner break & started towards Chamoli.  The roads all along were dangerous, with small land slides at many places & only enough road left to drive a tempo or a jeep.

When we reached Chamoli, the police check-post there blocked us.  In this hilly area, it is not allowed to drive between 8 PM & 5 AM.  Now we were stuck at 9 PM with no way to go forward & back as well.  Luckily, we had 3 buses taking 3 diff teams to Govindgath.  All were stopped at this police check-post.  The drivers then called the tour operator & somehow convinced the police to allow us to go ahead.

We drove for 1 more & again one more police check-post stopped us for the same reason.  This time, they asked us to give in writing that all of us are going ahead late night on our own risk.  Finally, at 11:30 PM, we reached our hotel at Pipalkoti.  All along the roads were really dangerous.  God knows how the driver drove the tempo in pitch dark with mountain on right side & a deep valley on left side with the river flowing with full force...

फूलों की घाटी (Valley of Flowers) Trip -- Day: 1

18-July-2015

Background:

Had been to Nainital - Kausani - Ranikhet during Jun-2011.  Was mesmerized by the Himalayas, snow clad mountains & the greenery (forest) there.

Valley of Flowers trip was pending since 2013:

-- 2013, there was devastation (आपदा) in Uttarakhand, due to heavy rains.  We had our Bangalore - Delhi flight tickets booked but had to cancel it as there was no way to go beyond Delhi.

-- 2014, I again attempted but Valley was closed as one of bridge connecting Valley to Ghangria was not yet open.
---- We went up to Delhi but had to change our plan to: Dalhousie - Dharamshala - Manali

---- Manali to Rohtang-pass & the glaciers there was again an impressive stretch.

-- 2015, finally things were falling in like & I could make this trip & what a trip it was, simply "amazing".

-- Glad that Dnyanesh decided to join me for this Valley-of-Flowers Trek.  He is the best "company" that one can have.  Always smiling, always happy & biggest thing is always cracking "practical" jokes.

---- About 6 weeks early, we started preparation for the trek.
---- Dnyanesh made a nice check-list of items to carry, like: diff kind of clothing, back-pack, food, medicine.
---- He also did a lot of googling & studied feedback from earlier travelers + instructions provided by diff tour operators.
---- We were keeping a tab on the weather as well & praying that both Sun & Rain god blesses our trip.

---- To verify our stamina, we did a trek to Nandi Hill on one Saturday evening.  Nandi Hill is our own hill-station, for Bengalurians.  We went to the base, parked our car there & started climbing the hill on foot.  It took is 2+ hrs to cover 8 KM.  I actually did 3 such attempts on 3 subsequent week-ends.
***Honestly, this 8 KM distance + the elevation of about 550 meters, proved to be very amateur compared to what was in store for us. 

Itinerary:

Day	From	To	Distance	Mode	Elevation	Elevation
					Meters	Feet
Day-1	Bangalore	Delhi	2172 KM	Flight	216	709
	Delhi	Haridwar	220 KM	Train	250	819
Day-2	Haridwar	Govindghat	295 KM	By Road	1,828	5,997
Day-3	Govindghat	Ghangaria	13 KM	1st Trek	3,049	10,003
Day-4	Ghangaria	Valley of Flowers & back to Ghangaria	6 KM	2nd Trek	3,352 to 3,658	10,995 to 12,000
Day-5	Ghangaria	Valley of Flowers & back to Ghangaria	12 KM	3rd Trek	3,352 to 3,658	10,995 to 12,000
Day-6	Ghangaria	Hemkund Saheb & back to Ghangaria	12 KM	4th Trek	4,633.00	15,200
Day-7	Ghangaria	Govindghat & to Badrinath & back to Govindghat	13 KM + 74 KM	5th Trek + By Road	1,828	5,997
Day-8	Govindghat	Haridwar + evening at Haridwar	295 KM	By Road	250	819
Day-9	Haridwar	Full day at Haridwar	--	--	--	--
Day-10	Haridwar	Delhi	220 KM	Train	216	709
	Delhi	Bangalore	2172 KM	Flight	920	3020

Uttarakhand Govt Map for "Char-Dham-Yatra"

Day-1:

Airline rescheduled my Bangalore - Delhi flight & made it leave 45 min early.  Had to start 4 AM from home.  The road was clear.  Taxi took 15 min to reach Hebbal (11 KM) & 25 form Hebbal to Airport (31 KM).

As soon as I got out of the Airplane at Delhi, even though the temp was told to be 29 C, I started sweating.  It was very humid outside.

Was surprised to see the Airport Metro service operational.  There is a shuttle bus form Terminal 1 of Delhi Airport to the nearest Airport Metro Station.  Its an AC bus it they charge रु 30/-.  Every 10 - 15 min there is a bus.

Our Train to Haridwar was at 3:30 PM.  We took the Airport Metro up to New Delhi Railway Station & kept our luggage at the Cloak Room.  Spent 3 hrs roaming at Connaught Place (CP) & came back to Railway Station.  We had one more group with trek back-packs in our train compartment.  Upon inquiring got to know that they were from Thane & were also heading for Valley-of-Flowers like us.